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跛脚”的亚洲城市化(下)

级别: 管理员
Welcome to Megacity...

There is something medieval about the dimly lit alleyways where migrants from the Chinese hinterland gather in the poorer quarters of Guangzhou. Makeshift buildings lean precariously over the lanes, and labourers hurry home through the dirt after 12 hours of toil.


The mobile telephone numbers scrawled on the walls offering forged identity papers are rather more modern. So are the nearby luxury apartment blocks, the roar of the city’s elevated expressways and the tens of thousands of high-tech factories churning out Chinese shoes and CD players for export to America and Europe.


Intrigued by what seems to be one of the turning points of history - the United Nations has predicted that next year, for the first time, more of the planet’s 6.7 billion people will be living in cities than outside them - I had come to this district of Guangzhou in search of someone who could explain why humankind was finally turning its back on the countryside.


I had imagined comparing urban Guangzhou to the northern English cities described by Charles Dickens in Hard Times. There are, after all, so many social and economic similarities between the first industrial revolution in England and the modernisation convulsing southern China and the rest of Asia today - even if it is happening on a faster and larger scale. It is no coincidence that Britain was the first country in which more than half the population were city-dwellers.


In truth, the fast-growing cities of Asia, including Guangzhou, are not so much Victorian as an awkward mix of the Middle Ages and the ultra-modern. Only the coal smoke and the smog are visibly Dickensian, yet the stories told by the migrants would be familiar to any refugee from the English countryside a century and a half ago.


“There was no work in the village.” With those words, barely audible over the Chinese soap opera playing on the television in her spartan concrete apartment, Zhang Dingnan explains why she came to Guangzhou from rural Hunan seven years ago. She is also telling the larger story of how hundreds of millions of people like her are moving from the villages of the world to its teeming cities. She is part of humanity’s greatest mass migration.


I had tried to speak to some of the hordes of rural migrants streaming in and out of Guangzhou’s main railway station that morning, but the ubiquitous policemen and plainclothes security officers made people too nervous to talk. Some migrants were sleeping rough in the square. There were villagers arriving to look for work, ex-villagers leaving to visit home, grandfathers bringing children to see their mothers, Hunanese and Sichuanese carrying bulging suitcases or sacks on bamboo poles, and labour agents hunting for cheap factory employees.


I was lucky to be guided that night to Zhang’s clean but crumbling home on the first floor of a nondescript building. With a shifting population of relatives and friends moving in and out of Guangzhou - 40 people from Zhang’s village have already come to the city - it is not clear on any given day how many live in the apartment, which is wallpapered with posters for bottled water. The rent is Rmb300 (£20) a month, and the permanent residents include her husband, who works as a security guard, and her recently arrived 17-year-old daughter. Zhang herself is 35, and she has three part-time jobs as a maid for foreigners living in Guangzhou.


Leaving children behind is one of the hardest parts of migrant life, whether the home village is in southern Africa or east Asia. Zhang entrusted her son and daughter to her husband’s parents in the village, but her father-in-law was crippled after losing a leg in a tractor accident and her mother-in-law died. The children ended up living on their own at the ages of 13 and 14, with the neighbours looking in from time to time. “Living conditions in the village are much better,” says Zhang, “but there’s no money there.” Now, in town, things are looking up. The daughter, He Yong, has landed a job at the Ramada Pearl Hotel and even speaks a few words of English. Both mother and daughter have their mobile phones lying on the kitchen table.


China is the most obvious example of the mass migration changing the face of the planet, simply because its 1.3 billion inhabitants make it the most populous nation. But that sort of transformation is widespread, be it in Brazil, Nigeria, Mexico or India, the second most populous country in the world, with 1.1 billion people.


India is poorer and - so far - less urban than China, but its cities are as modern-medieval as their Chinese counterparts. In the Greams Road slum in central Chennai (previously known as Madras), under a vast billboard advertising a Ford Fiesta, several thousand Tamils live cheek-by-jowl in shacks and tiny brick dwellings next to the dead, black stench of the Cooum River and a few thorn bushes fluttering with discarded plastic bags. Residents are plagued by mosquitoes and fevers as old as humanity. The wood and palm-leaf homes nearest the water were swept away when the devastating Indian Ocean tsunami struck the coast at the end of 2004. Yet no one wants to leave, for this slum has existed for decades, there is plenty of work in Chennai, no rent to pay, and the government hands out rice and kerosene for cooking.


In these dark and smoky homes live construction workers, servants, painters and auto-rickshaw drivers - the former villagers who power the city’s expanding economy. “This place feels comfortable,” concludes Komathi, a 34-year-old housewife. She is one of a group of cheerful women gathering round the strange visitor whose shiny shoes are now spattered with mud and worse. Her husband is a day labourer, which means he gets what work he can. Her daughter also lives in Greams Road with her husband and young son. Of her own two sons, one is studying and the other works as a mechanic. All the men are out working or looking for work. Life is difficult but not impossible, and it is getting better as Chennai reaps the rewards of the Indian economic revival.


The urban migration that is changing our world, however, is a story not only of villagers becoming servants or factory workers but also of villagers using the income to finance their children’s education. In this way the children may secure the coveted urban office job that will allow them to shoulder their way into the ranks of the new middle class.


Not far from Greams Road, in a leafy residential area of south Chennai, Mariam Ram is racing to recruit more graduates for TnQ Books and Journals, her high-tech business that prepares international scientific journals for publication. Publishers in the west have contracted out the costly and time-consuming job of preparation and editing to companies such as hers. When I saw her, Ram already had a round-the-clock operation employing 638 staff in two buildings, and she was looking for 30 more. “The lowest qualification in this office would be a first-class Bachelor’s degree in science,” she says. “The rest would be Masters or MPhils. We’re recruiting so frantically right now. It needs English, it needs science, it needs IT and it needs low wages, and you can’t get it anywhere except India.


“I think the country’s clearly more affluent,” she says. “You see change every time you come. This is a very exciting time to be in India.”


Particularly in Chennai. The city is proud of its conservative culture but also poised for the kind of headlong growth that has exhilarated and exhausted the residents of Bangalore and Mumbai. A few streets from Ram’s office, cars and trucks vie noisily for road-space with goats, cows, bicycles and three-wheelers. Outside the city, I saw a farmer using two bullocks to pull a single ploughshare in a field next to a gleaming Saint-Gobain glass factory and an IT park, while trucks bearing new wind turbines drove west towards Bangalore.


“When we started in our company, all of our employees had bicycles and some had scooters,” says Joseph Sigelman, a former Goldman Sachs banker who seven years ago founded OfficeTiger, a “business process outsourcing” company that handles back-office work for bankers, lawyers and publishers. “Today they all have scooters, and some of them have cars.” The average age of the employees - nearly 3,000 are in Chennai - is 26. “As soon as they get a job offer, they become part of the middle class.”


Chennai, like most of urban Asia, boasts a hodge-podge of architectural styles in which concrete is the common denominator, sometimes bare and brutal and sometimes dressed in an ill-proportioned neo-classical facade of polished granite. The streets are heaped with astonishing amounts of rubbish and unused building materials: piles of sand, bricks and giant pipes that eventually become part of the urban scenery.


“Clean Values, Clean City” declares a forlorn sign from the public works department on the wall of the Institute of Child Health and Hospital for Children in the central district of Egmore. Beneath the sign is raw sewage and rotting garbage, a glaring indictment of the authorities in a city where street-cleaners are neither expensive nor unavailable. Chennai has 1,200 slum districts - a third of the city’s 7 million inhabitants live there - but there are also elegant old houses and comfortable condominiums, and an “IT corridor” to the south complete with a six-lane highway under construction and office blocks of blue glass.


Chinese cities such as Guangzhou display the same incongruous juxtaposition of squalor and luxury, but in China the frenzy of investment, construction and reckless disregard for the environment exceeds anything seen in India. As you enter Guangdong province, the air thickens and the streams turn black. On an otherwise cloudless day with bad smog, you can look straight at the sun at midday without hurting your eyes. Earthmoving equipment removes hill after green hill as the concrete tide advances inexorably over the paddy fields and the fruit orchards. Yet not far from the sprawling factory complexes and the featureless dormitories for Guangzhou’s migrant workers are bright green golf courses, luxury condominiums for China’s nouveaux riches and the Longcheer Yacht Club on the South China Sea.


“The central government still judges local government leaders in terms of how fast their localities are growing and how much money they are turning over,” says Zheng Tianxiang, a professor whose thoughtful views on city development have apparently failed to make much impact on the three Guangzhou mayors he has advised in his long career as an urbanisation expert. “Maybe it’s beginning to change, but we haven’t seen much evidence of it yet.” Zheng is both proud and regretful - pleased at the wealth that has been created but sorry about some of the consequences. He lives in an apartment in a gated community called the Left Bank Residential Quarters, which comes with a swimming pool and gardens between the tower blocks. “We used to swim in the Pearl River outside Zhongshan University,” he says. “The environment was great. There was no ash in the sky. But the people were poor. I made Rmb50 a month.” Nowadays, he says, salaries have multiplied many times over. “At least we have money - not as much as you westerners - but when we’ve got enough, we’ll sort out the environment.”


That is a typical comment from an urban Asian. In trying to understand the urbanisation of humanity, I deliberately chose to visit Guangzhou and Chennai, as well as Chongqing and Bangalore, rather than capitals such as New Delhi or Beijing or familiar commercial centres such as Shanghai and Mumbai. These secondary cities may not be household names in the US or Europe, but they are roughly as populous as New York and Paris. They also exemplify the momentous process which UN-Habitat, the UN human settlements programme, describes in its latest report on the state of the world’s cities.


As migrants pour out of their villages in search of work and prosperity, the number of cities with more than a million people is expected to rise to more than 350, and the number of “megacities” - 10 million and up - will increase from the 20 or so today. This is not a purely Asian phenomenon, or one that moves precisely in step with economic development - Lagos, Cairo, Sao Paulo and Mexico City rank among the world’s biggest cities. But Asia’s massive population means that half of the world’s cities, big and small, will be in Asia. In the next quarter of a century Asia’s urban population is expected to grow by 70 per cent or 1 billion people. There is even talk of gargantuan conurbations of more than 20 million people, dubbed “metacities” or “hypercities” by the UN. Asia already has one such city, Tokyo-Yokohama, and the next one could be the increasingly joined-up conurbation of industry and commerce that includes Hong Kong, Shenzhen and Guangzhou. Cities over 10 million, says Habitat, “will be vested with such power that at many levels they will act as city-states independent of national and regional mediation”.


Cities are as old as civilisation, or rather, civilisation is as old as the city, as the origin of both words - from the Latin civis, a citizen - reminds us. In 1200, Guangzhou, later known to the British as Canton, was already one of the world’s largest cities with a population of more than 200,000. But the scale and speed of what has been happening over the past few decades is without precedent. At Indian independence in 1947, Delhi was a city of a million people. Today it is home to 14 million. The population of Bangalore has risen from 1 million in the 1960s to 6 million or more now. Mumbai, with more than 18 million people, is already one of the most densely populated places on earth, and it continues to grow. This urban flood has spawned a whole new industry of consultants, architects, technicians and mass transport experts. Books on individual cities and on the city as a global phenomenon have proliferated as fast as urban slums. They include Joel Kotkin’s The City: A Global History, Mike Davis’s Planet of Slums, Max Rodenbeck’s Cairo: The City Victorious, Stephen Inwood’s City of Cities: The Birth of Modern London and Suketu Mehta’s Maximum City: Bombay Lost and Found.


As the title of Davis’s book suggests, and as the UN-Habitat report emphasises, there are grave doubts about whether megacities can survive as viable societies when millions of the poor eke out a living in fetid slums and the rich live behind the high walls of luxury gated communities. More people live in Mumbai’s slums, the UN notes, than in the whole of Norway. Pessimists such as G. Dattatri, the former head of urban planning in Chennai, do not see cities as generators of wealth and employment for the rural poor but as refuges of last resort for landless villagers with nowhere else to go. Villagers are not pulled into town by the attractions of the city, but pushed into insanitary slums by their desperate plight at home. “For survival they come here,” says a barefoot Dattatri over coffee at his home. He calculates that construction workers earn about Rs3,000 (£35) a month when they need Rs7,000-8,000 to support a family of five; while a barely qualified office worker with a job in IT could be earning Rs25,000-30,000. “Fortunately, till now there has not been any revolutionary impact, but this will certainly lead to much more unrest. Today crime has gone up in Chennai. People live in miserable conditions, and they feel they are being exploited. So we are virtually sitting on a timebomb, particularly in the Indian cities. One thing that has prevented this happening is the whole Indian philosophy of contentment.”


Optimists in the urbanisation debate - and optimism here is a relative term - argue that India’s particular problem is not a surfeit of people in its cities, but a surfeit of people overall. In the coming decades, India will overtake China as the most populous nation and will have to find space for an additional 500 million inhabitants. That does not change the facts about cities: people want to live in them, and in the modern age they remain the most efficient way of housing and providing jobs and services to large numbers of citizens.


It is rare to meet a slum-dweller who wants to move out of free or low-rent accommodation into improved but more expensive housing, let alone one who wants to return to a home village to resume the backbreaking work of growing crops - especially when five, six or seven family members may have paying jobs in the city. Of course, people do eventually abandon the slums once that new apartment is within financial reach, or else they begin to upgrade and gentrify the slum until it is a slum no more. “I have a relative from Sichuan who came 15 years ago,” says Miles Lee, a senior research fellow at the state-funded China Development Institute in Shenzhen. “She now earns Rmb3,000-4,000 a month. A farm girl. She worked her way up to be a frontline manager in a department store. Her two-room condo costs about Rmb1,500 a month.” Shenzhen is a former fishing village that was transformed into an industrial city of 8 million migrants in 30 years, as China modernised.


Among newly urbanising Asians, there is little of the sentimentality about the countryside typically felt by long-urbanised Europeans and Americans. I knew that Chongqing, the former wartime capital of China on the Yangtze River, was supposed to be the world’s biggest city (although that is something of a cheat, since the municipality of 32 million people includes several towns and rural areas) and I knew that it was being developed at breakneck speed by Communist leaders intent on opening up the western half of China. But I was still shocked by the almost megalomaniac scale of building and the casual demolition of rocky mountains with dynamite and bulldozers. In one place I watched farmland being torn up to make way for a new commercial park servicing the food industry, next to luxury housing estates with names such as “Blue-Green Water Cambridge” and architectural features vaguely suggesting Bavarian towns or Chinese-kitsch versions of Venice.


A watchman called Zhou, however, was anything but nostalgic when I met him at the site of yet another new industrial estate. The 50-year-old, 5ft-tall security guard with a wispy beard and crooked teeth mocked the idea of anyone being upset about the dynamiting of hillsides. “Levelling the ground is good,” he declared. “Chongqing people don’t like mountains. There’s too much up and down.” He used to farm sweet potatoes, but his land was bought for development and he is buying a new apartment with the compensation money. For the moment he sleeps under canvas at the site, wears plastic sandals, black trousers and a rough blue shirt and earns Rmb600 a month. “Life is much better,” he says.


Even urban enthusiasts cannot deny that the uncontrollable growth of cities that is a feature of modern Asia brings with it many horrors, including transport chaos, poisonous air pollution and toxic rivers. “Ten years ago, I used to go fishing and there was beautiful clean water,” says Miles Lee in Shenzhen. “Now you go to the same place and all you catch is shorts and T-shirts and plastic bags.”


Bangalore, a cosmopolitan, fast-growing city that sees itself as one of the IT hubs of India, is choking on its own success. It has become a byword for a catastrophic failure of urban planning that has left the city with traffic jams so bad - 900 vehicles a day are being added to the streets - that investors have started to despair and look elsewhere to expand. They complain that it took 10 years to approve a new airport, its design capacity has already been exceeded by the existing number of passengers, and there will be no viable road or rail link from Bangalore city even when it opens. “Fundamentally, the government is 100 per cent incompetent,” said Bob Hoekstra shortly before retiring as head of Philips Software in Bangalore to become a consultant. “The state government or the federal government?” I asked. “Both,” he replied.


The failure of Bangalore and many other cities to manage their own growth, however, does not mean that urbanisation is bad for humanity. It simply means that urbanisation is being badly managed. The death in April this year of Jane Jacobs, the author who analysed and championed cities as centres of influence and wealth creation, prompted a number of articles recalling the importance of urbanisation in humanity’s advancement through the ages. Plenty of experts remain eager to further the cause of urbanisation. “Civilisations have always been urbanised,” says K.E. Seetharam, a water and sanitation expert at the Asian Development Bank in Manila. “This concept of rural development is something more recent and in my view doesn’t exist.” He concludes: “Urbanisation is not a problem. It’s a natural outcome of development.”


Indian sentimentalism about the supposed benefits of village life, and the consequent incompetence in managing cities, contrasts starkly with the ruthless pragmatism of the central and local authorities in China. Some Indian politicians and foreign donors remain obsessed with the problem of rural poverty and therefore spend scarce resources on subsidies for villagers that would be equally well spent on the nation’s burgeoning towns and cities. One reason for this apparently illogical approach is politics: India is a democracy. For historical reasons - urbanisation is recent - the countryside is over-represented in the political system and power rests with the state government, not with the cities. The result, says Nandan Nilekani, chief executive of Infosys, the Bangalore-based IT services group, is “a disconnect between the economic power and the political power”. Bangalore accounts for a 10th of the population of Karnataka state and about 60 per cent of its gross domestic product, he says, but has only 7 per cent of the state’s electoral seats. “In China you don’t have that problem. India is the only example of urbanisation [on this scale] happening with universal adult franchise.”


A baneful consequence of India’s poor infrastructure is that companies and householders end up providing many of their own services - by generating electricity, drilling for water in their backyards and even disposing of their own waste - which eliminates the efficiency gains one would expect from providing such services in a densely populated area. Kiran Mazumdar-Shaw, who chairs Biocon, the Bangalore-based biotechnology company, says companies such as hers use the government’s unreliable electricity supply purely as a backup. Successful companies and rich individuals live cocooned from the hardships faced by others, emerging only to complain about services such as roads that they cannot provide for themselves and thus deepening the fears of the pessimists about social conflict. Yet, as Nilekani points out, it is the skilled and relatively wealthy incomers to the cities, not the masses of poorer migrants, who put most strain on the infrastructure by driving private cars and consuming other goods and services that must be brought into town.


While Indian governments have dithered and delayed in the face of the incoming tide of urban migrants, Chinese officialdom has prepared for the inevitable with the sort of ruthless efficiency only authoritarian regimes seem capable of achieving. Beijing is expecting 300-500 million rural people, equivalent to the entire population of western Europe, to migrate to Chinese cities over the next two decades, and it has encouraged city mayors and local governments to invest in the infrastructure to deal with this. (Foreigners invariably praise the country’s roads and airports.)


But there is a dark side to the relentless urge to cover the land with concrete and produce economic statistics that find favour in Beijing. “There will emerge six big cities, 25 small cities and more than 490 small towns, which will be surrounding the megalopolis-city district, like many stars encircling the Sun,” declares a typically hubristic exhibit on the 2005-2020 Chongqing master plan at the city’s urban planning museum. China is remarkable for having museums to celebrate the future rather than the past, but what you will not find out in them is the environmental and social cost of the country’s accelerated city development, the communities swept aside and dispersed in the name of progress, the rivers and fields poisoned by chemicals or the skies darkened by choking smog.


Nor will you hear much about that elusive goal of urban planners known as “quality of life”. For that - and perhaps to understand the ultimate destination of Asia’s younger megacities - one needs to go to Tokyo or Seoul. While fast-expanding Chennai and Chongqing are forcing motorways through the city, the South Korean capital is doing the opposite as it starts to suburbanise and turn green. Lee Myung-bak, who has just finished his term as mayor of the Seoul Metropolitan Government, says the amount of green space in the city has trebled in a decade.


Lee made his name by improving public transport and demolishing roads, not building them. He organised the destruction of a city-centre elevated highway and replaced it with the Cheonggyecheon stream that had been buried under the concrete. The stream immediately became a much-used pedestrian attraction in the heart of the city, and this apparently anti-urban gesture may help Lee get elected as the next president of South Korea. “We’re in a rather different situation from the cities in India and China,” he says. “About 20 years ago we did undergo a rapid expansion of population and back then we had our hands full. Now our population has stabilised and has actually started to decrease. More and more citizens want a house that better reflects their living standards - one you don’t just live in, but actually enjoy living in.”


By the time you read this, the owner of the building where Zhang had her Guangzhou flat may have carried out his threat to demolish it to make way for something more salubrious (and probably more expensive). Zhang planned to search immediately for a new place, even if it was smaller and costlier. “Of course,” she said when I met her, “we want to go back to the village eventually.” I do not believe it for a moment. In cities such as Guangzhou and Chongqing, Chennai and Bangalore, mayors and local governments are still making plenty of mistakes as they seek to grapple with the 21st-century conversion of Earth into an urban planet. But the biggest mistake of all would be to pretend that humans are destined to be anything other than city-dwellers.
跛脚”的亚洲城市化(下)



早已完成城市化的欧美人不同,刚刚经历城市化的亚洲人,对农村几乎都没有眷恋之情。我知道,曾在战时作为中国陪都的重庆,应该算作全球最大的城市(尽管这多少有点自欺欺人,因为这座拥有3200万人口、长江之畔的城市,包括了几个镇和农村地区),而且我也知道,有意开发中国西部的共产党领导人,正以危险的速度对它进行开发。但是,亲眼见到近乎狂妄的建设规模,以及用炸药和推土机随意破坏石山的情景,仍让我震惊。我曾在一个地方见到一片农田被夷为平地,为一个面向食品业的新商业园让路,旁边坐落着几处豪华居住小区,有着“翠波剑桥”这样的名字,其建筑布局隐约有些巴伐利亚小镇风情,或者像庸俗的中国版威尼斯。

“重庆人不喜欢山”

然而,在另一个已成为新工业园区的施工现场,一位姓周的看门人一点也不怀旧。这位50岁、5英尺高的保安,有着稀疏的胡须和一口东倒西歪的牙齿,听说有人对炸山感到不安,他不以为然。“把地弄平是件好事,”他宣称。“重庆人不喜欢山。上下坡太多了。”他过去种红薯,但他的地被买下,用来开发,他正要用补偿金买一套新公寓。他暂时睡在施工现场的工棚里,穿着塑料凉鞋、黑裤子和粗糙的蓝色衬衫,每月挣600元人民币。他表示:“现在的生活好多了。”


即便是热衷于城市化建设的人也无法否认,作为现代亚洲的一个特点,无法控制的城市化发展,带来了许多让人震惊的事情,包括交通混乱、有毒的空气污染以及河水毒化。“10年前,我常去钓鱼,而且河水美丽清澈,”深圳的Miles Lee表示。“现在,去同一个地方,你能钓到的全是短裤、T恤衫和塑料袋。”

“政府百分之百无能”

班加罗尔这个发展迅速的都市,将自己视为印度IT中心之一,而它正受累于自己的成功。其城市交通堵塞之严重,已使其成为城市规划灾难性失败的代名词――街道上每天新增900辆汽车――也使投资者们在绝望之余,寻找其它地方发展。他们抱怨称,当局花了10年时间才批准建设一个新机场,而现有旅客数量已超过它的设计能力,甚至当机场投入运行时,都不会有可用的公路或铁路连接到班加罗尔市区。飞利浦软体中心有限公司(Philips Software)驻班加罗尔的主管鲍勃?贺斯壮(Bob Hoekstra)退休后将成为一名咨询顾问。他在退休前不久表示:“从根本上讲,政府是百分之百的无能。”我问道:“是邦政府还是联邦政府?”他回答道:“两者都是。”

“古往今来,文明都是城市化的”

然而,班加罗尔和许多其它城市在管理自身增长方面的失败,并不意味着城市化对人类而言是件坏事。它只是说明,人们对城市化的管理不力。作家简?雅各布(Jane Jacobs)曾分析并支持城市作为权力和财富创造中心的观点,今年4月份她的辞世,引发了大量文章,它们回忆了不同时代城市化在人类进步中的重要性。许多专家仍积极推崇城市化。“古往今来,文明都是城市化的,”亚洲开发银行(ADB)的水与卫生专家K? E? 西特拉姆(K.E. Seetharam)在马尼拉表示。“所谓农村发展观念是更近一些时候才出现的,在我看来它并不成立。”他的结论是:“城市化不是问题。它是发展的自然结果。”

印度对所谓乡村生活益处的眷恋,以及随之造成的城市管理方面的无能,与中国中央及地方政府无情的实用主义,形成了鲜明对比。一些印度政界人物和外国捐赠人,仍沉迷于农村贫困问题,因此将稀缺的资源用于对农民的补贴,而这些资源本来可用在该国发展迅速的城镇。这种明显不合逻辑做法的原因之一是政治:印度是一个民主国家。出于历史原因――城市化是近年来的事――在政治体制中农村的代表过多,而权力集中在邦政府,而不是市政府。班加罗尔IT服务集团――信息系统技术公司(Infosys)首席执行官南丹?尼勒卡尼(Nandan Nilekani)表示,上述问题的结果是“经济实力与政治权力脱节”。他表示,班加罗尔占卡纳塔克邦的人口比例为十分之一,约占全邦生产总值(GDP)的60%,但选举席位只占全邦的7%。“在中国就不会有这样的问题。印度是唯一一个(如此规模的)城市化进程与普遍的成人选举权并存的例子。”

印度落后的基础设施,带来了惨痛的后果:公司和住户要为自己提供许多服务,包括发电、在自己后院打井取水、甚至自行处置垃圾。这消除了在人口稠密地区提供此类服务可产生的效率增益。执掌班加罗尔生物科技公司――拜康(Biocon)的基兰?马宗达-肖(Kiran Mazumdar-Shaw)表示,像她这样的公司,把不可靠的市政供电只是作为备用。成功的公司和富裕的个人,能够免受他人所面临的困境的困扰,他们只是出来抱怨公路等自己无法解决的服务,从而加深了悲观主义者对于社会冲突的担忧。然而,正如尼勒卡尼所指出的,正是那些有技能的、相对富裕的城市新居民――而不是大量较为贫穷的移民――给基础设施带来了最大的压力,因为他们开私家车,并消费其它必须运进城的商品和服务。

在印度各级政府面临涌入的城市移民潮踌躇不决之际,中国官僚却以一种只有威权政体似乎才能达到的无情效率,准备迎接这一不可避免的趋势。北京预计,今后20年内,将有相当于西欧总人口的3亿至5亿农村人口,迁入中国城市,并鼓励市长和地方政府投资建设基础设施,以应对这种情况。(外国人总是赞赏中国的公路和机场。)

但这种毫不放松的意愿――用混凝土覆盖土地、产生能够取悦北京的经济数据――也存在阴暗面。在重庆城市规划展览馆,2005至2020年重庆城市总体规划的展览表现出一种典型的傲慢:“将建成6个大城市,25个中小城市和490多个小城镇,它们将拱卫都市区,就像众星拱月。”中国有一个特别之处:它有赞美未来、而非纪念过去的博物馆,但你在那些地方无法看到的是:加速的城市发展所造成的环境和社会代价,以进步的名义被舍弃和消失的社区,被化学品毒化的河流和田野,以及被令人窒息的烟雾污染的天空。

韩国城市追求“生活质量”

在中国的“未来”博物馆,你也不会听到“生活质量”这个城市规划者难以捉摸的目标。对于这一点――或许为了理解亚洲较为年轻的超大型城市的终极目标――需要去东京或首尔走走。在迅速扩张的钦奈和重庆建设贯穿市区的高速公路时,韩国首都却开始“郊区化”(suburbanise)和绿化。刚结束首尔市长任期的李明博(Lee Myung-bak)表示,首尔的城市绿地面积在10年中增长了两倍。

通过改善公共交通、拆毁而非修建公路,李明博引起人们的关注。他组织拆毁了一条市中心的高架公路,恢复了曾经埋藏在混凝土下的清溪川。这条溪流立即成为人气很高的步行景点,而这种明显的反城市化姿态,可能有助于李明博竞选下一任韩国总统。“我们与印度和中国城市的情况不同,”他表示。“大约20年前,我们的确经历过一番迅速的人口增长,那时我们忙得不可开交。现在我们的人口已趋于稳定,实际上已开始下降。越来越多的市民,希望拥有一所能更好地反映他们生活水平的房子――一座不只是为了居住,而确实能享受居住的房子。”

在你读到此处时,张丁楠广州住处的业主,可能已兑现拆建的威胁,为更为宜人(很可能也更昂贵)的什么东西让路。张丁楠打算立即找一个新地方,即便面积更小,租金更贵。“当然,”我见到她的时候,她表示,“最终我们希望回到村里。”我才不信这样的话。在21世纪的广州、重庆、钦奈和班加罗尔等城市,市长和当地政府在将地球改造为一个城市行星之际,仍在犯大量错误。但最大的错误,将是否定人类是天然的城市居住者。
级别: 管理员
只看该作者 2 发表于: 2006-08-24
“跛脚”的亚洲城市化(中)
Welcome to Megacity...

There is something medieval about the dimly lit alleyways where migrants from the Chinese hinterland gather in the poorer quarters of Guangzhou. Makeshift buildings lean precariously over the lanes, and labourers hurry home through the dirt after 12 hours of toil.


The mobile telephone numbers scrawled on the walls offering forged identity papers are rather more modern. So are the nearby luxury apartment blocks, the roar of the city’s elevated expressways and the tens of thousands of high-tech factories churning out Chinese shoes and CD players for export to America and Europe.


Intrigued by what seems to be one of the turning points of history - the United Nations has predicted that next year, for the first time, more of the planet’s 6.7 billion people will be living in cities than outside them - I had come to this district of Guangzhou in search of someone who could explain why humankind was finally turning its back on the countryside.


I had imagined comparing urban Guangzhou to the northern English cities described by Charles Dickens in Hard Times. There are, after all, so many social and economic similarities between the first industrial revolution in England and the modernisation convulsing southern China and the rest of Asia today - even if it is happening on a faster and larger scale. It is no coincidence that Britain was the first country in which more than half the population were city-dwellers.


In truth, the fast-growing cities of Asia, including Guangzhou, are not so much Victorian as an awkward mix of the Middle Ages and the ultra-modern. Only the coal smoke and the smog are visibly Dickensian, yet the stories told by the migrants would be familiar to any refugee from the English countryside a century and a half ago.


“There was no work in the village.” With those words, barely audible over the Chinese soap opera playing on the television in her spartan concrete apartment, Zhang Dingnan explains why she came to Guangzhou from rural Hunan seven years ago. She is also telling the larger story of how hundreds of millions of people like her are moving from the villages of the world to its teeming cities. She is part of humanity’s greatest mass migration.


I had tried to speak to some of the hordes of rural migrants streaming in and out of Guangzhou’s main railway station that morning, but the ubiquitous policemen and plainclothes security officers made people too nervous to talk. Some migrants were sleeping rough in the square. There were villagers arriving to look for work, ex-villagers leaving to visit home, grandfathers bringing children to see their mothers, Hunanese and Sichuanese carrying bulging suitcases or sacks on bamboo poles, and labour agents hunting for cheap factory employees.


I was lucky to be guided that night to Zhang’s clean but crumbling home on the first floor of a nondescript building. With a shifting population of relatives and friends moving in and out of Guangzhou - 40 people from Zhang’s village have already come to the city - it is not clear on any given day how many live in the apartment, which is wallpapered with posters for bottled water. The rent is Rmb300 (£20) a month, and the permanent residents include her husband, who works as a security guard, and her recently arrived 17-year-old daughter. Zhang herself is 35, and she has three part-time jobs as a maid for foreigners living in Guangzhou.


Leaving children behind is one of the hardest parts of migrant life, whether the home village is in southern Africa or east Asia. Zhang entrusted her son and daughter to her husband’s parents in the village, but her father-in-law was crippled after losing a leg in a tractor accident and her mother-in-law died. The children ended up living on their own at the ages of 13 and 14, with the neighbours looking in from time to time. “Living conditions in the village are much better,” says Zhang, “but there’s no money there.” Now, in town, things are looking up. The daughter, He Yong, has landed a job at the Ramada Pearl Hotel and even speaks a few words of English. Both mother and daughter have their mobile phones lying on the kitchen table.


China is the most obvious example of the mass migration changing the face of the planet, simply because its 1.3 billion inhabitants make it the most populous nation. But that sort of transformation is widespread, be it in Brazil, Nigeria, Mexico or India, the second most populous country in the world, with 1.1 billion people.


India is poorer and - so far - less urban than China, but its cities are as modern-medieval as their Chinese counterparts. In the Greams Road slum in central Chennai (previously known as Madras), under a vast billboard advertising a Ford Fiesta, several thousand Tamils live cheek-by-jowl in shacks and tiny brick dwellings next to the dead, black stench of the Cooum River and a few thorn bushes fluttering with discarded plastic bags. Residents are plagued by mosquitoes and fevers as old as humanity. The wood and palm-leaf homes nearest the water were swept away when the devastating Indian Ocean tsunami struck the coast at the end of 2004. Yet no one wants to leave, for this slum has existed for decades, there is plenty of work in Chennai, no rent to pay, and the government hands out rice and kerosene for cooking.


In these dark and smoky homes live construction workers, servants, painters and auto-rickshaw drivers - the former villagers who power the city’s expanding economy. “This place feels comfortable,” concludes Komathi, a 34-year-old housewife. She is one of a group of cheerful women gathering round the strange visitor whose shiny shoes are now spattered with mud and worse. Her husband is a day labourer, which means he gets what work he can. Her daughter also lives in Greams Road with her husband and young son. Of her own two sons, one is studying and the other works as a mechanic. All the men are out working or looking for work. Life is difficult but not impossible, and it is getting better as Chennai reaps the rewards of the Indian economic revival.


The urban migration that is changing our world, however, is a story not only of villagers becoming servants or factory workers but also of villagers using the income to finance their children’s education. In this way the children may secure the coveted urban office job that will allow them to shoulder their way into the ranks of the new middle class.


Not far from Greams Road, in a leafy residential area of south Chennai, Mariam Ram is racing to recruit more graduates for TnQ Books and Journals, her high-tech business that prepares international scientific journals for publication. Publishers in the west have contracted out the costly and time-consuming job of preparation and editing to companies such as hers. When I saw her, Ram already had a round-the-clock operation employing 638 staff in two buildings, and she was looking for 30 more. “The lowest qualification in this office would be a first-class Bachelor’s degree in science,” she says. “The rest would be Masters or MPhils. We’re recruiting so frantically right now. It needs English, it needs science, it needs IT and it needs low wages, and you can’t get it anywhere except India.


“I think the country’s clearly more affluent,” she says. “You see change every time you come. This is a very exciting time to be in India.”


Particularly in Chennai. The city is proud of its conservative culture but also poised for the kind of headlong growth that has exhilarated and exhausted the residents of Bangalore and Mumbai. A few streets from Ram’s office, cars and trucks vie noisily for road-space with goats, cows, bicycles and three-wheelers. Outside the city, I saw a farmer using two bullocks to pull a single ploughshare in a field next to a gleaming Saint-Gobain glass factory and an IT park, while trucks bearing new wind turbines drove west towards Bangalore.


“When we started in our company, all of our employees had bicycles and some had scooters,” says Joseph Sigelman, a former Goldman Sachs banker who seven years ago founded OfficeTiger, a “business process outsourcing” company that handles back-office work for bankers, lawyers and publishers. “Today they all have scooters, and some of them have cars.” The average age of the employees - nearly 3,000 are in Chennai - is 26. “As soon as they get a job offer, they become part of the middle class.”


Chennai, like most of urban Asia, boasts a hodge-podge of architectural styles in which concrete is the common denominator, sometimes bare and brutal and sometimes dressed in an ill-proportioned neo-classical facade of polished granite. The streets are heaped with astonishing amounts of rubbish and unused building materials: piles of sand, bricks and giant pipes that eventually become part of the urban scenery.


“Clean Values, Clean City” declares a forlorn sign from the public works department on the wall of the Institute of Child Health and Hospital for Children in the central district of Egmore. Beneath the sign is raw sewage and rotting garbage, a glaring indictment of the authorities in a city where street-cleaners are neither expensive nor unavailable. Chennai has 1,200 slum districts - a third of the city’s 7 million inhabitants live there - but there are also elegant old houses and comfortable condominiums, and an “IT corridor” to the south complete with a six-lane highway under construction and office blocks of blue glass.


Chinese cities such as Guangzhou display the same incongruous juxtaposition of squalor and luxury, but in China the frenzy of investment, construction and reckless disregard for the environment exceeds anything seen in India. As you enter Guangdong province, the air thickens and the streams turn black. On an otherwise cloudless day with bad smog, you can look straight at the sun at midday without hurting your eyes. Earthmoving equipment removes hill after green hill as the concrete tide advances inexorably over the paddy fields and the fruit orchards. Yet not far from the sprawling factory complexes and the featureless dormitories for Guangzhou’s migrant workers are bright green golf courses, luxury condominiums for China’s nouveaux riches and the Longcheer Yacht Club on the South China Sea.


“The central government still judges local government leaders in terms of how fast their localities are growing and how much money they are turning over,” says Zheng Tianxiang, a professor whose thoughtful views on city development have apparently failed to make much impact on the three Guangzhou mayors he has advised in his long career as an urbanisation expert. “Maybe it’s beginning to change, but we haven’t seen much evidence of it yet.” Zheng is both proud and regretful - pleased at the wealth that has been created but sorry about some of the consequences. He lives in an apartment in a gated community called the Left Bank Residential Quarters, which comes with a swimming pool and gardens between the tower blocks. “We used to swim in the Pearl River outside Zhongshan University,” he says. “The environment was great. There was no ash in the sky. But the people were poor. I made Rmb50 a month.” Nowadays, he says, salaries have multiplied many times over. “At least we have money - not as much as you westerners - but when we’ve got enough, we’ll sort out the environment.”


That is a typical comment from an urban Asian. In trying to understand the urbanisation of humanity, I deliberately chose to visit Guangzhou and Chennai, as well as Chongqing and Bangalore, rather than capitals such as New Delhi or Beijing or familiar commercial centres such as Shanghai and Mumbai. These secondary cities may not be household names in the US or Europe, but they are roughly as populous as New York and Paris. They also exemplify the momentous process which UN-Habitat, the UN human settlements programme, describes in its latest report on the state of the world’s cities.


As migrants pour out of their villages in search of work and prosperity, the number of cities with more than a million people is expected to rise to more than 350, and the number of “megacities” - 10 million and up - will increase from the 20 or so today. This is not a purely Asian phenomenon, or one that moves precisely in step with economic development - Lagos, Cairo, Sao Paulo and Mexico City rank among the world’s biggest cities. But Asia’s massive population means that half of the world’s cities, big and small, will be in Asia. In the next quarter of a century Asia’s urban population is expected to grow by 70 per cent or 1 billion people. There is even talk of gargantuan conurbations of more than 20 million people, dubbed “metacities” or “hypercities” by the UN. Asia already has one such city, Tokyo-Yokohama, and the next one could be the increasingly joined-up conurbation of industry and commerce that includes Hong Kong, Shenzhen and Guangzhou. Cities over 10 million, says Habitat, “will be vested with such power that at many levels they will act as city-states independent of national and regional mediation”.


Cities are as old as civilisation, or rather, civilisation is as old as the city, as the origin of both words - from the Latin civis, a citizen - reminds us. In 1200, Guangzhou, later known to the British as Canton, was already one of the world’s largest cities with a population of more than 200,000. But the scale and speed of what has been happening over the past few decades is without precedent. At Indian independence in 1947, Delhi was a city of a million people. Today it is home to 14 million. The population of Bangalore has risen from 1 million in the 1960s to 6 million or more now. Mumbai, with more than 18 million people, is already one of the most densely populated places on earth, and it continues to grow. This urban flood has spawned a whole new industry of consultants, architects, technicians and mass transport experts. Books on individual cities and on the city as a global phenomenon have proliferated as fast as urban slums. They include Joel Kotkin’s The City: A Global History, Mike Davis’s Planet of Slums, Max Rodenbeck’s Cairo: The City Victorious, Stephen Inwood’s City of Cities: The Birth of Modern London and Suketu Mehta’s Maximum City: Bombay Lost and Found.


As the title of Davis’s book suggests, and as the UN-Habitat report emphasises, there are grave doubts about whether megacities can survive as viable societies when millions of the poor eke out a living in fetid slums and the rich live behind the high walls of luxury gated communities. More people live in Mumbai’s slums, the UN notes, than in the whole of Norway. Pessimists such as G. Dattatri, the former head of urban planning in Chennai, do not see cities as generators of wealth and employment for the rural poor but as refuges of last resort for landless villagers with nowhere else to go. Villagers are not pulled into town by the attractions of the city, but pushed into insanitary slums by their desperate plight at home. “For survival they come here,” says a barefoot Dattatri over coffee at his home. He calculates that construction workers earn about Rs3,000 (£35) a month when they need Rs7,000-8,000 to support a family of five; while a barely qualified office worker with a job in IT could be earning Rs25,000-30,000. “Fortunately, till now there has not been any revolutionary impact, but this will certainly lead to much more unrest. Today crime has gone up in Chennai. People live in miserable conditions, and they feel they are being exploited. So we are virtually sitting on a timebomb, particularly in the Indian cities. One thing that has prevented this happening is the whole Indian philosophy of contentment.”


Optimists in the urbanisation debate - and optimism here is a relative term - argue that India’s particular problem is not a surfeit of people in its cities, but a surfeit of people overall. In the coming decades, India will overtake China as the most populous nation and will have to find space for an additional 500 million inhabitants. That does not change the facts about cities: people want to live in them, and in the modern age they remain the most efficient way of housing and providing jobs and services to large numbers of citizens.


It is rare to meet a slum-dweller who wants to move out of free or low-rent accommodation into improved but more expensive housing, let alone one who wants to return to a home village to resume the backbreaking work of growing crops - especially when five, six or seven family members may have paying jobs in the city. Of course, people do eventually abandon the slums once that new apartment is within financial reach, or else they begin to upgrade and gentrify the slum until it is a slum no more. “I have a relative from Sichuan who came 15 years ago,” says Miles Lee, a senior research fellow at the state-funded China Development Institute in Shenzhen. “She now earns Rmb3,000-4,000 a month. A farm girl. She worked her way up to be a frontline manager in a department store. Her two-room condo costs about Rmb1,500 a month.” Shenzhen is a former fishing village that was transformed into an industrial city of 8 million migrants in 30 years, as China modernised.


Among newly urbanising Asians, there is little of the sentimentality about the countryside typically felt by long-urbanised Europeans and Americans. I knew that Chongqing, the former wartime capital of China on the Yangtze River, was supposed to be the world’s biggest city (although that is something of a cheat, since the municipality of 32 million people includes several towns and rural areas) and I knew that it was being developed at breakneck speed by Communist leaders intent on opening up the western half of China. But I was still shocked by the almost megalomaniac scale of building and the casual demolition of rocky mountains with dynamite and bulldozers. In one place I watched farmland being torn up to make way for a new commercial park servicing the food industry, next to luxury housing estates with names such as “Blue-Green Water Cambridge” and architectural features vaguely suggesting Bavarian towns or Chinese-kitsch versions of Venice.


A watchman called Zhou, however, was anything but nostalgic when I met him at the site of yet another new industrial estate. The 50-year-old, 5ft-tall security guard with a wispy beard and crooked teeth mocked the idea of anyone being upset about the dynamiting of hillsides. “Levelling the ground is good,” he declared. “Chongqing people don’t like mountains. There’s too much up and down.” He used to farm sweet potatoes, but his land was bought for development and he is buying a new apartment with the compensation money. For the moment he sleeps under canvas at the site, wears plastic sandals, black trousers and a rough blue shirt and earns Rmb600 a month. “Life is much better,” he says.


Even urban enthusiasts cannot deny that the uncontrollable growth of cities that is a feature of modern Asia brings with it many horrors, including transport chaos, poisonous air pollution and toxic rivers. “Ten years ago, I used to go fishing and there was beautiful clean water,” says Miles Lee in Shenzhen. “Now you go to the same place and all you catch is shorts and T-shirts and plastic bags.”


Bangalore, a cosmopolitan, fast-growing city that sees itself as one of the IT hubs of India, is choking on its own success. It has become a byword for a catastrophic failure of urban planning that has left the city with traffic jams so bad - 900 vehicles a day are being added to the streets - that investors have started to despair and look elsewhere to expand. They complain that it took 10 years to approve a new airport, its design capacity has already been exceeded by the existing number of passengers, and there will be no viable road or rail link from Bangalore city even when it opens. “Fundamentally, the government is 100 per cent incompetent,” said Bob Hoekstra shortly before retiring as head of Philips Software in Bangalore to become a consultant. “The state government or the federal government?” I asked. “Both,” he replied.


The failure of Bangalore and many other cities to manage their own growth, however, does not mean that urbanisation is bad for humanity. It simply means that urbanisation is being badly managed. The death in April this year of Jane Jacobs, the author who analysed and championed cities as centres of influence and wealth creation, prompted a number of articles recalling the importance of urbanisation in humanity’s advancement through the ages. Plenty of experts remain eager to further the cause of urbanisation. “Civilisations have always been urbanised,” says K.E. Seetharam, a water and sanitation expert at the Asian Development Bank in Manila. “This concept of rural development is something more recent and in my view doesn’t exist.” He concludes: “Urbanisation is not a problem. It’s a natural outcome of development.”


Indian sentimentalism about the supposed benefits of village life, and the consequent incompetence in managing cities, contrasts starkly with the ruthless pragmatism of the central and local authorities in China. Some Indian politicians and foreign donors remain obsessed with the problem of rural poverty and therefore spend scarce resources on subsidies for villagers that would be equally well spent on the nation’s burgeoning towns and cities. One reason for this apparently illogical approach is politics: India is a democracy. For historical reasons - urbanisation is recent - the countryside is over-represented in the political system and power rests with the state government, not with the cities. The result, says Nandan Nilekani, chief executive of Infosys, the Bangalore-based IT services group, is “a disconnect between the economic power and the political power”. Bangalore accounts for a 10th of the population of Karnataka state and about 60 per cent of its gross domestic product, he says, but has only 7 per cent of the state’s electoral seats. “In China you don’t have that problem. India is the only example of urbanisation [on this scale] happening with universal adult franchise.”


A baneful consequence of India’s poor infrastructure is that companies and householders end up providing many of their own services - by generating electricity, drilling for water in their backyards and even disposing of their own waste - which eliminates the efficiency gains one would expect from providing such services in a densely populated area. Kiran Mazumdar-Shaw, who chairs Biocon, the Bangalore-based biotechnology company, says companies such as hers use the government’s unreliable electricity supply purely as a backup. Successful companies and rich individuals live cocooned from the hardships faced by others, emerging only to complain about services such as roads that they cannot provide for themselves and thus deepening the fears of the pessimists about social conflict. Yet, as Nilekani points out, it is the skilled and relatively wealthy incomers to the cities, not the masses of poorer migrants, who put most strain on the infrastructure by driving private cars and consuming other goods and services that must be brought into town.


While Indian governments have dithered and delayed in the face of the incoming tide of urban migrants, Chinese officialdom has prepared for the inevitable with the sort of ruthless efficiency only authoritarian regimes seem capable of achieving. Beijing is expecting 300-500 million rural people, equivalent to the entire population of western Europe, to migrate to Chinese cities over the next two decades, and it has encouraged city mayors and local governments to invest in the infrastructure to deal with this. (Foreigners invariably praise the country’s roads and airports.)


But there is a dark side to the relentless urge to cover the land with concrete and produce economic statistics that find favour in Beijing. “There will emerge six big cities, 25 small cities and more than 490 small towns, which will be surrounding the megalopolis-city district, like many stars encircling the Sun,” declares a typically hubristic exhibit on the 2005-2020 Chongqing master plan at the city’s urban planning museum. China is remarkable for having museums to celebrate the future rather than the past, but what you will not find out in them is the environmental and social cost of the country’s accelerated city development, the communities swept aside and dispersed in the name of progress, the rivers and fields poisoned by chemicals or the skies darkened by choking smog.


Nor will you hear much about that elusive goal of urban planners known as “quality of life”. For that - and perhaps to understand the ultimate destination of Asia’s younger megacities - one needs to go to Tokyo or Seoul. While fast-expanding Chennai and Chongqing are forcing motorways through the city, the South Korean capital is doing the opposite as it starts to suburbanise and turn green. Lee Myung-bak, who has just finished his term as mayor of the Seoul Metropolitan Government, says the amount of green space in the city has trebled in a decade.


Lee made his name by improving public transport and demolishing roads, not building them. He organised the destruction of a city-centre elevated highway and replaced it with the Cheonggyecheon stream that had been buried under the concrete. The stream immediately became a much-used pedestrian attraction in the heart of the city, and this apparently anti-urban gesture may help Lee get elected as the next president of South Korea. “We’re in a rather different situation from the cities in India and China,” he says. “About 20 years ago we did undergo a rapid expansion of population and back then we had our hands full. Now our population has stabilised and has actually started to decrease. More and more citizens want a house that better reflects their living standards - one you don’t just live in, but actually enjoy living in.”


By the time you read this, the owner of the building where Zhang had her Guangzhou flat may have carried out his threat to demolish it to make way for something more salubrious (and probably more expensive). Zhang planned to search immediately for a new place, even if it was smaller and costlier. “Of course,” she said when I met her, “we want to go back to the village eventually.” I do not believe it for a moment. In cities such as Guangzhou and Chongqing, Chennai and Bangalore, mayors and local governments are still making plenty of mistakes as they seek to grapple with the 21st-century conversion of Earth into an urban planet. But the biggest mistake of all would be to pretend that humans are destined to be anything other than city-dwellers.
“跛脚”的亚洲城市化(中)


亚洲大多数城市一样,钦奈也有大杂烩式的建筑风格,最常见的是混凝土建筑,这些建筑有时外表裸露刺目,有时覆盖了一层不大相称的新古典风格磨光花岗岩。城市的街道上堆积着数量惊人的垃圾和建筑材料:成堆的沙子、砖头和大型管道,它们最终将成为城市景色的一个组成部分。

在中心区Egmore,儿童健康研究所和儿童医院(Institute of Child Health and Hospital for Children)的墙上,“清洁价值观,清洁城市”(Clean Values, Clean City)的标语,昭示着公共工程部门的苍白口号。标语下方是未经处理的污水和腐烂的垃圾,这是对市政当局的醒目控诉――在这座城市里,街道清洁工报酬低廉,也不难找。钦奈有1200处贫民窟,在该市的700万人口中,三分之一住在那里。但钦奈也有典雅的老房子和舒适的新式公寓,南部还有一条“IT走廊”――包括一条建设中的六车道高速公路,以及蓝玻璃办公大楼。

在广州等中国城市,贫穷和奢华也同样不和谐地并存着。但在中国,投资和建筑狂潮,以及对环境不计后果的漠视,远远超过印度。当你进入广东省后,空气变得污浊,河流颜色变黑。即便在无云的日子,由于大气中的烟雾,正午时你也可以抬头直视太阳,而不会伤到眼睛。大型掘土机把绿色的山坡一一夷为平地,混凝土建筑像一股滚滚洪流,扑向稻田和果园。然而,就在距离大片厂区和广州民工不起眼的宿舍不远处,是亮丽的绿色高尔夫球场、中国新贵的豪华别墅,以及南海边的浪骑游艇会(Longcheer Yacht Club)。


“等我们有了钱,就会对付环境问题”

郑天详教授是老资格的城市化专家,他对城市发展的深入见解,显然未能对他提供建议的三任广州市长产生太大影响。他说:“中央政府仍在根据当地发展速度和经济产出,来评价地方领导人。或许情况刚刚开始发生变化,但我们尚未看到太多的证据。”郑天详既感到自豪,又觉得遗憾――为创造的财富感到高兴,但对由此造成的一些后果觉得遗憾。他住在一个名叫左岸的封闭式小区,小区带有游泳池,大楼之间有花园。“我们过去常在中山大学(Zhongshan University)外的珠江(Pearl River)游泳,”他说。“环境很棒,天空中没有灰尘。但是人们很穷,我一个月工资只有50元人民币。”他表示,现在工资涨了好多倍,“至少我们有钱了――尽管没你们西方人富裕――但等到我们有了足够的钱,我们将对付环境问题。”

这是一个亚洲城市人的典型评论。为了理解人类的城市化进程,我有意选择了走访广州和钦奈,以及重庆和班加罗尔,而不是像新德里或北京这样的首都,或者上海和孟买等人们熟悉的商业中心。在美国或欧洲,这些亚洲的二线城市或许并不知名,但它们的人口数量却和纽约、巴黎大致相当。它们展现了联合国协调人类安居的机构――人居署(UN Habitat)在最新的全球城市状况报告中描述的重大进程。

随着移民涌出农村,去寻找工作和致富机会,预计人口超过百万的城市数量将升至350个以上,而人口达到或超过1000万的“特大城市”数量,也会在当今20来个的基础上增加。这不是一个单纯的亚洲现象,也并非与经济发展同步出现――拉各斯(编者注:尼日利亚最大城市)、开罗、圣保罗和墨西哥城都在全球最大的城市之列。但亚洲庞大的人口意味着,全球半数城市(无论大小)将在亚洲。未来25年内,预计亚洲的城市人口会增长70%,即10亿人。人们甚至在谈论人口逾2000万的超大型都市,这被联合国称为“特大城市”或“超级城市”。亚洲已经有了一个这样的城市――东京-横滨,而下一个可能是囊括香港、深圳和广州的日趋融为一体的工商业都会。人居署表示,人口过千万的城市“实力之大,将使它们在许多层面上成为一个城邦,独立于国家和地区之外。”

“城市”与“文明”一样古老

“城市”(city)与“文明”(civilisation)一样古老,或者更确切地讲,是“文明”与“城市”一样古老,正如两个词的共同起源――拉丁语“civis”(市民)――所提醒我们的那样。1200年,广州(后来英国人称为Canton)就已成为全球最大的城市之一,人口超过20万。但过去数十年所发生的一切,无论在规模和速度方面,都是前所未有的。当印度于1947年独立时,德里还是一座只有100万人口的城市。如今,它的人口为1400万。班加罗尔的人口已由20世纪60年代的100万,升至目前的600万,甚至更多。孟买的人口已超过1800万,成为地球上人口密度最高的地方之一,而它仍在继续发展。这种城市化进程,催生了一个由咨询顾问、建筑师、技术人员、公共交通专家组成的全新行业。论述具体城市和作为全球现象的城市的书籍迅速增多,与城市贫民窟的蔓延速度一样快,包括乔尔?科特金(Joel Kotkin)的《全球城市史》(The City: A Global History),迈克?戴维斯(Mike Davis)的《贫民窟星球》(Planet of Slums),马克斯?罗登贝克(Max Rodenbeck)的《开罗:胜利之城》(Cairo: The City Victorious),斯蒂芬?英伍德(Stephen Inwood)的《城中城:现代伦敦的诞生》(City of Cities: The Birth of Modern London),以及苏克图?梅赫塔(Suketu Mehta)的《极大之城:失而复得的孟买》(Maximum City: Bombay Lost and Found)。

正如戴维斯的书名所显示、以及联合国人居署报告所强调的那样,人们严重质疑,当数百万穷人在臭气熏天的贫民窟勉强谋生,而富人们住在高墙内的奢华小区时,这些超大型城市能否作为可行的社会而得以生存。联合国指出,生活在孟买贫民窟的人口数量,超过了挪威的人口总数。原钦奈城市规划负责人G?达塔特(G. Dattatri)等悲观主义者,并不把城市视为给农村穷人提供财富和就业的“发电机”,而是将其视作那些无处可去、丧失土地的农民最后选择的避难所。农民并非被城市的吸引力拉进了城,而是被家乡令人绝望的境况,推进了肮脏的贫民窟。“为了生存,他们来到这里,”赤着脚的达塔特在家中喝着咖啡说道。他计算了一下,建筑工人每月大约赚3000卢比(合35英镑),但他们需要7000至8000卢比来养活一个五口之家;而IT行业一个刚够格的办公室职员,每月可挣2.5万至3万卢比。“幸运的是,到目前为止,还没有任何‘革命’影响,但这无疑会导致更多的社会动荡。目前,钦奈的犯罪率已有所上升。人们的生活条件恶劣,而且他们感到自己正遭受着剥削。所以,我们几乎是坐在定时炸弹上面,在印度城市中尤其如此。只不过是印度人的知足哲学在阻止炸弹爆炸。”

人们希望住在城市

城市化辩论中的乐观主义者――这里的乐观,是一种相对的说法――辩称,印度的特殊问题不在于城市人口的过度膨胀,而是总体人口的过度膨胀。在未来数十年中,印度将超过中国,成为全球人口最多的国家,要为额外5亿居民寻找生存空间。但这些不能改变有关城市的基本事实:人们希望住在城市,在现代社会,城市化仍是为大量居民提供住房、就业和服务的最有效率的途径。

很少遇到想放弃免费或租金较低的住所、搬到条件较好但更贵的地方去住的贫民窟居民,更别说想回农村老家,重拾辛苦的庄稼活的人了――尤其是当5个、6个或7个家庭成员在城市有一份有薪工作时。当然,一旦新公寓的价钱在其财力范围内,人们最终确实会离开贫民窟,或者他们会开始对贫民窟进行升级和改造,使其不再是贫民窟。“我有一个四川亲戚15年前来这里,”国家出资的深圳综合开发研究院(China Development Institute)高级研究员Miles Lee介绍说。“她现在每月赚3000至4000元人民币。一个农村姑娘。她一路走过来,成了一家百货公司的一线经理。她住的两居室公寓,每月租金约为1500元人民币。”深圳原是一个渔村,在中国的现代化过程中,它在30年间变成了一个有800万移民的工业城市。

(待续)
级别: 管理员
只看该作者 1 发表于: 2006-08-24
“跛脚”的亚洲城市化(上)
Welcome to Megacity...

There is something medieval about the dimly lit alleyways where migrants from the Chinese hinterland gather in the poorer quarters of Guangzhou. Makeshift buildings lean precariously over the lanes, and labourers hurry home through the dirt after 12 hours of toil.


The mobile telephone numbers scrawled on the walls offering forged identity papers are rather more modern. So are the nearby luxury apartment blocks, the roar of the city’s elevated expressways and the tens of thousands of high-tech factories churning out Chinese shoes and CD players for export to America and Europe.


Intrigued by what seems to be one of the turning points of history - the United Nations has predicted that next year, for the first time, more of the planet’s 6.7 billion people will be living in cities than outside them - I had come to this district of Guangzhou in search of someone who could explain why humankind was finally turning its back on the countryside.


I had imagined comparing urban Guangzhou to the northern English cities described by Charles Dickens in Hard Times. There are, after all, so many social and economic similarities between the first industrial revolution in England and the modernisation convulsing southern China and the rest of Asia today - even if it is happening on a faster and larger scale. It is no coincidence that Britain was the first country in which more than half the population were city-dwellers.


In truth, the fast-growing cities of Asia, including Guangzhou, are not so much Victorian as an awkward mix of the Middle Ages and the ultra-modern. Only the coal smoke and the smog are visibly Dickensian, yet the stories told by the migrants would be familiar to any refugee from the English countryside a century and a half ago.


“There was no work in the village.” With those words, barely audible over the Chinese soap opera playing on the television in her spartan concrete apartment, Zhang Dingnan explains why she came to Guangzhou from rural Hunan seven years ago. She is also telling the larger story of how hundreds of millions of people like her are moving from the villages of the world to its teeming cities. She is part of humanity’s greatest mass migration.


I had tried to speak to some of the hordes of rural migrants streaming in and out of Guangzhou’s main railway station that morning, but the ubiquitous policemen and plainclothes security officers made people too nervous to talk. Some migrants were sleeping rough in the square. There were villagers arriving to look for work, ex-villagers leaving to visit home, grandfathers bringing children to see their mothers, Hunanese and Sichuanese carrying bulging suitcases or sacks on bamboo poles, and labour agents hunting for cheap factory employees.


I was lucky to be guided that night to Zhang’s clean but crumbling home on the first floor of a nondescript building. With a shifting population of relatives and friends moving in and out of Guangzhou - 40 people from Zhang’s village have already come to the city - it is not clear on any given day how many live in the apartment, which is wallpapered with posters for bottled water. The rent is Rmb300 (£20) a month, and the permanent residents include her husband, who works as a security guard, and her recently arrived 17-year-old daughter. Zhang herself is 35, and she has three part-time jobs as a maid for foreigners living in Guangzhou.


Leaving children behind is one of the hardest parts of migrant life, whether the home village is in southern Africa or east Asia. Zhang entrusted her son and daughter to her husband’s parents in the village, but her father-in-law was crippled after losing a leg in a tractor accident and her mother-in-law died. The children ended up living on their own at the ages of 13 and 14, with the neighbours looking in from time to time. “Living conditions in the village are much better,” says Zhang, “but there’s no money there.” Now, in town, things are looking up. The daughter, He Yong, has landed a job at the Ramada Pearl Hotel and even speaks a few words of English. Both mother and daughter have their mobile phones lying on the kitchen table.


China is the most obvious example of the mass migration changing the face of the planet, simply because its 1.3 billion inhabitants make it the most populous nation. But that sort of transformation is widespread, be it in Brazil, Nigeria, Mexico or India, the second most populous country in the world, with 1.1 billion people.


India is poorer and - so far - less urban than China, but its cities are as modern-medieval as their Chinese counterparts. In the Greams Road slum in central Chennai (previously known as Madras), under a vast billboard advertising a Ford Fiesta, several thousand Tamils live cheek-by-jowl in shacks and tiny brick dwellings next to the dead, black stench of the Cooum River and a few thorn bushes fluttering with discarded plastic bags. Residents are plagued by mosquitoes and fevers as old as humanity. The wood and palm-leaf homes nearest the water were swept away when the devastating Indian Ocean tsunami struck the coast at the end of 2004. Yet no one wants to leave, for this slum has existed for decades, there is plenty of work in Chennai, no rent to pay, and the government hands out rice and kerosene for cooking.


In these dark and smoky homes live construction workers, servants, painters and auto-rickshaw drivers - the former villagers who power the city’s expanding economy. “This place feels comfortable,” concludes Komathi, a 34-year-old housewife. She is one of a group of cheerful women gathering round the strange visitor whose shiny shoes are now spattered with mud and worse. Her husband is a day labourer, which means he gets what work he can. Her daughter also lives in Greams Road with her husband and young son. Of her own two sons, one is studying and the other works as a mechanic. All the men are out working or looking for work. Life is difficult but not impossible, and it is getting better as Chennai reaps the rewards of the Indian economic revival.


The urban migration that is changing our world, however, is a story not only of villagers becoming servants or factory workers but also of villagers using the income to finance their children’s education. In this way the children may secure the coveted urban office job that will allow them to shoulder their way into the ranks of the new middle class.


Not far from Greams Road, in a leafy residential area of south Chennai, Mariam Ram is racing to recruit more graduates for TnQ Books and Journals, her high-tech business that prepares international scientific journals for publication. Publishers in the west have contracted out the costly and time-consuming job of preparation and editing to companies such as hers. When I saw her, Ram already had a round-the-clock operation employing 638 staff in two buildings, and she was looking for 30 more. “The lowest qualification in this office would be a first-class Bachelor’s degree in science,” she says. “The rest would be Masters or MPhils. We’re recruiting so frantically right now. It needs English, it needs science, it needs IT and it needs low wages, and you can’t get it anywhere except India.


“I think the country’s clearly more affluent,” she says. “You see change every time you come. This is a very exciting time to be in India.”


Particularly in Chennai. The city is proud of its conservative culture but also poised for the kind of headlong growth that has exhilarated and exhausted the residents of Bangalore and Mumbai. A few streets from Ram’s office, cars and trucks vie noisily for road-space with goats, cows, bicycles and three-wheelers. Outside the city, I saw a farmer using two bullocks to pull a single ploughshare in a field next to a gleaming Saint-Gobain glass factory and an IT park, while trucks bearing new wind turbines drove west towards Bangalore.


“When we started in our company, all of our employees had bicycles and some had scooters,” says Joseph Sigelman, a former Goldman Sachs banker who seven years ago founded OfficeTiger, a “business process outsourcing” company that handles back-office work for bankers, lawyers and publishers. “Today they all have scooters, and some of them have cars.” The average age of the employees - nearly 3,000 are in Chennai - is 26. “As soon as they get a job offer, they become part of the middle class.”


Chennai, like most of urban Asia, boasts a hodge-podge of architectural styles in which concrete is the common denominator, sometimes bare and brutal and sometimes dressed in an ill-proportioned neo-classical facade of polished granite. The streets are heaped with astonishing amounts of rubbish and unused building materials: piles of sand, bricks and giant pipes that eventually become part of the urban scenery.


“Clean Values, Clean City” declares a forlorn sign from the public works department on the wall of the Institute of Child Health and Hospital for Children in the central district of Egmore. Beneath the sign is raw sewage and rotting garbage, a glaring indictment of the authorities in a city where street-cleaners are neither expensive nor unavailable. Chennai has 1,200 slum districts - a third of the city’s 7 million inhabitants live there - but there are also elegant old houses and comfortable condominiums, and an “IT corridor” to the south complete with a six-lane highway under construction and office blocks of blue glass.


Chinese cities such as Guangzhou display the same incongruous juxtaposition of squalor and luxury, but in China the frenzy of investment, construction and reckless disregard for the environment exceeds anything seen in India. As you enter Guangdong province, the air thickens and the streams turn black. On an otherwise cloudless day with bad smog, you can look straight at the sun at midday without hurting your eyes. Earthmoving equipment removes hill after green hill as the concrete tide advances inexorably over the paddy fields and the fruit orchards. Yet not far from the sprawling factory complexes and the featureless dormitories for Guangzhou’s migrant workers are bright green golf courses, luxury condominiums for China’s nouveaux riches and the Longcheer Yacht Club on the South China Sea.


“The central government still judges local government leaders in terms of how fast their localities are growing and how much money they are turning over,” says Zheng Tianxiang, a professor whose thoughtful views on city development have apparently failed to make much impact on the three Guangzhou mayors he has advised in his long career as an urbanisation expert. “Maybe it’s beginning to change, but we haven’t seen much evidence of it yet.” Zheng is both proud and regretful - pleased at the wealth that has been created but sorry about some of the consequences. He lives in an apartment in a gated community called the Left Bank Residential Quarters, which comes with a swimming pool and gardens between the tower blocks. “We used to swim in the Pearl River outside Zhongshan University,” he says. “The environment was great. There was no ash in the sky. But the people were poor. I made Rmb50 a month.” Nowadays, he says, salaries have multiplied many times over. “At least we have money - not as much as you westerners - but when we’ve got enough, we’ll sort out the environment.”


That is a typical comment from an urban Asian. In trying to understand the urbanisation of humanity, I deliberately chose to visit Guangzhou and Chennai, as well as Chongqing and Bangalore, rather than capitals such as New Delhi or Beijing or familiar commercial centres such as Shanghai and Mumbai. These secondary cities may not be household names in the US or Europe, but they are roughly as populous as New York and Paris. They also exemplify the momentous process which UN-Habitat, the UN human settlements programme, describes in its latest report on the state of the world’s cities.


As migrants pour out of their villages in search of work and prosperity, the number of cities with more than a million people is expected to rise to more than 350, and the number of “megacities” - 10 million and up - will increase from the 20 or so today. This is not a purely Asian phenomenon, or one that moves precisely in step with economic development - Lagos, Cairo, Sao Paulo and Mexico City rank among the world’s biggest cities. But Asia’s massive population means that half of the world’s cities, big and small, will be in Asia. In the next quarter of a century Asia’s urban population is expected to grow by 70 per cent or 1 billion people. There is even talk of gargantuan conurbations of more than 20 million people, dubbed “metacities” or “hypercities” by the UN. Asia already has one such city, Tokyo-Yokohama, and the next one could be the increasingly joined-up conurbation of industry and commerce that includes Hong Kong, Shenzhen and Guangzhou. Cities over 10 million, says Habitat, “will be vested with such power that at many levels they will act as city-states independent of national and regional mediation”.


Cities are as old as civilisation, or rather, civilisation is as old as the city, as the origin of both words - from the Latin civis, a citizen - reminds us. In 1200, Guangzhou, later known to the British as Canton, was already one of the world’s largest cities with a population of more than 200,000. But the scale and speed of what has been happening over the past few decades is without precedent. At Indian independence in 1947, Delhi was a city of a million people. Today it is home to 14 million. The population of Bangalore has risen from 1 million in the 1960s to 6 million or more now. Mumbai, with more than 18 million people, is already one of the most densely populated places on earth, and it continues to grow. This urban flood has spawned a whole new industry of consultants, architects, technicians and mass transport experts. Books on individual cities and on the city as a global phenomenon have proliferated as fast as urban slums. They include Joel Kotkin’s The City: A Global History, Mike Davis’s Planet of Slums, Max Rodenbeck’s Cairo: The City Victorious, Stephen Inwood’s City of Cities: The Birth of Modern London and Suketu Mehta’s Maximum City: Bombay Lost and Found.


As the title of Davis’s book suggests, and as the UN-Habitat report emphasises, there are grave doubts about whether megacities can survive as viable societies when millions of the poor eke out a living in fetid slums and the rich live behind the high walls of luxury gated communities. More people live in Mumbai’s slums, the UN notes, than in the whole of Norway. Pessimists such as G. Dattatri, the former head of urban planning in Chennai, do not see cities as generators of wealth and employment for the rural poor but as refuges of last resort for landless villagers with nowhere else to go. Villagers are not pulled into town by the attractions of the city, but pushed into insanitary slums by their desperate plight at home. “For survival they come here,” says a barefoot Dattatri over coffee at his home. He calculates that construction workers earn about Rs3,000 (£35) a month when they need Rs7,000-8,000 to support a family of five; while a barely qualified office worker with a job in IT could be earning Rs25,000-30,000. “Fortunately, till now there has not been any revolutionary impact, but this will certainly lead to much more unrest. Today crime has gone up in Chennai. People live in miserable conditions, and they feel they are being exploited. So we are virtually sitting on a timebomb, particularly in the Indian cities. One thing that has prevented this happening is the whole Indian philosophy of contentment.”


Optimists in the urbanisation debate - and optimism here is a relative term - argue that India’s particular problem is not a surfeit of people in its cities, but a surfeit of people overall. In the coming decades, India will overtake China as the most populous nation and will have to find space for an additional 500 million inhabitants. That does not change the facts about cities: people want to live in them, and in the modern age they remain the most efficient way of housing and providing jobs and services to large numbers of citizens.


It is rare to meet a slum-dweller who wants to move out of free or low-rent accommodation into improved but more expensive housing, let alone one who wants to return to a home village to resume the backbreaking work of growing crops - especially when five, six or seven family members may have paying jobs in the city. Of course, people do eventually abandon the slums once that new apartment is within financial reach, or else they begin to upgrade and gentrify the slum until it is a slum no more. “I have a relative from Sichuan who came 15 years ago,” says Miles Lee, a senior research fellow at the state-funded China Development Institute in Shenzhen. “She now earns Rmb3,000-4,000 a month. A farm girl. She worked her way up to be a frontline manager in a department store. Her two-room condo costs about Rmb1,500 a month.” Shenzhen is a former fishing village that was transformed into an industrial city of 8 million migrants in 30 years, as China modernised.


Among newly urbanising Asians, there is little of the sentimentality about the countryside typically felt by long-urbanised Europeans and Americans. I knew that Chongqing, the former wartime capital of China on the Yangtze River, was supposed to be the world’s biggest city (although that is something of a cheat, since the municipality of 32 million people includes several towns and rural areas) and I knew that it was being developed at breakneck speed by Communist leaders intent on opening up the western half of China. But I was still shocked by the almost megalomaniac scale of building and the casual demolition of rocky mountains with dynamite and bulldozers. In one place I watched farmland being torn up to make way for a new commercial park servicing the food industry, next to luxury housing estates with names such as “Blue-Green Water Cambridge” and architectural features vaguely suggesting Bavarian towns or Chinese-kitsch versions of Venice.


A watchman called Zhou, however, was anything but nostalgic when I met him at the site of yet another new industrial estate. The 50-year-old, 5ft-tall security guard with a wispy beard and crooked teeth mocked the idea of anyone being upset about the dynamiting of hillsides. “Levelling the ground is good,” he declared. “Chongqing people don’t like mountains. There’s too much up and down.” He used to farm sweet potatoes, but his land was bought for development and he is buying a new apartment with the compensation money. For the moment he sleeps under canvas at the site, wears plastic sandals, black trousers and a rough blue shirt and earns Rmb600 a month. “Life is much better,” he says.


Even urban enthusiasts cannot deny that the uncontrollable growth of cities that is a feature of modern Asia brings with it many horrors, including transport chaos, poisonous air pollution and toxic rivers. “Ten years ago, I used to go fishing and there was beautiful clean water,” says Miles Lee in Shenzhen. “Now you go to the same place and all you catch is shorts and T-shirts and plastic bags.”


Bangalore, a cosmopolitan, fast-growing city that sees itself as one of the IT hubs of India, is choking on its own success. It has become a byword for a catastrophic failure of urban planning that has left the city with traffic jams so bad - 900 vehicles a day are being added to the streets - that investors have started to despair and look elsewhere to expand. They complain that it took 10 years to approve a new airport, its design capacity has already been exceeded by the existing number of passengers, and there will be no viable road or rail link from Bangalore city even when it opens. “Fundamentally, the government is 100 per cent incompetent,” said Bob Hoekstra shortly before retiring as head of Philips Software in Bangalore to become a consultant. “The state government or the federal government?” I asked. “Both,” he replied.


The failure of Bangalore and many other cities to manage their own growth, however, does not mean that urbanisation is bad for humanity. It simply means that urbanisation is being badly managed. The death in April this year of Jane Jacobs, the author who analysed and championed cities as centres of influence and wealth creation, prompted a number of articles recalling the importance of urbanisation in humanity’s advancement through the ages. Plenty of experts remain eager to further the cause of urbanisation. “Civilisations have always been urbanised,” says K.E. Seetharam, a water and sanitation expert at the Asian Development Bank in Manila. “This concept of rural development is something more recent and in my view doesn’t exist.” He concludes: “Urbanisation is not a problem. It’s a natural outcome of development.”


Indian sentimentalism about the supposed benefits of village life, and the consequent incompetence in managing cities, contrasts starkly with the ruthless pragmatism of the central and local authorities in China. Some Indian politicians and foreign donors remain obsessed with the problem of rural poverty and therefore spend scarce resources on subsidies for villagers that would be equally well spent on the nation’s burgeoning towns and cities. One reason for this apparently illogical approach is politics: India is a democracy. For historical reasons - urbanisation is recent - the countryside is over-represented in the political system and power rests with the state government, not with the cities. The result, says Nandan Nilekani, chief executive of Infosys, the Bangalore-based IT services group, is “a disconnect between the economic power and the political power”. Bangalore accounts for a 10th of the population of Karnataka state and about 60 per cent of its gross domestic product, he says, but has only 7 per cent of the state’s electoral seats. “In China you don’t have that problem. India is the only example of urbanisation [on this scale] happening with universal adult franchise.”


A baneful consequence of India’s poor infrastructure is that companies and householders end up providing many of their own services - by generating electricity, drilling for water in their backyards and even disposing of their own waste - which eliminates the efficiency gains one would expect from providing such services in a densely populated area. Kiran Mazumdar-Shaw, who chairs Biocon, the Bangalore-based biotechnology company, says companies such as hers use the government’s unreliable electricity supply purely as a backup. Successful companies and rich individuals live cocooned from the hardships faced by others, emerging only to complain about services such as roads that they cannot provide for themselves and thus deepening the fears of the pessimists about social conflict. Yet, as Nilekani points out, it is the skilled and relatively wealthy incomers to the cities, not the masses of poorer migrants, who put most strain on the infrastructure by driving private cars and consuming other goods and services that must be brought into town.


While Indian governments have dithered and delayed in the face of the incoming tide of urban migrants, Chinese officialdom has prepared for the inevitable with the sort of ruthless efficiency only authoritarian regimes seem capable of achieving. Beijing is expecting 300-500 million rural people, equivalent to the entire population of western Europe, to migrate to Chinese cities over the next two decades, and it has encouraged city mayors and local governments to invest in the infrastructure to deal with this. (Foreigners invariably praise the country’s roads and airports.)


But there is a dark side to the relentless urge to cover the land with concrete and produce economic statistics that find favour in Beijing. “There will emerge six big cities, 25 small cities and more than 490 small towns, which will be surrounding the megalopolis-city district, like many stars encircling the Sun,” declares a typically hubristic exhibit on the 2005-2020 Chongqing master plan at the city’s urban planning museum. China is remarkable for having museums to celebrate the future rather than the past, but what you will not find out in them is the environmental and social cost of the country’s accelerated city development, the communities swept aside and dispersed in the name of progress, the rivers and fields poisoned by chemicals or the skies darkened by choking smog.


Nor will you hear much about that elusive goal of urban planners known as “quality of life”. For that - and perhaps to understand the ultimate destination of Asia’s younger megacities - one needs to go to Tokyo or Seoul. While fast-expanding Chennai and Chongqing are forcing motorways through the city, the South Korean capital is doing the opposite as it starts to suburbanise and turn green. Lee Myung-bak, who has just finished his term as mayor of the Seoul Metropolitan Government, says the amount of green space in the city has trebled in a decade.


Lee made his name by improving public transport and demolishing roads, not building them. He organised the destruction of a city-centre elevated highway and replaced it with the Cheonggyecheon stream that had been buried under the concrete. The stream immediately became a much-used pedestrian attraction in the heart of the city, and this apparently anti-urban gesture may help Lee get elected as the next president of South Korea. “We’re in a rather different situation from the cities in India and China,” he says. “About 20 years ago we did undergo a rapid expansion of population and back then we had our hands full. Now our population has stabilised and has actually started to decrease. More and more citizens want a house that better reflects their living standards - one you don’t just live in, but actually enjoy living in.”


By the time you read this, the owner of the building where Zhang had her Guangzhou flat may have carried out his threat to demolish it to make way for something more salubrious (and probably more expensive). Zhang planned to search immediately for a new place, even if it was smaller and costlier. “Of course,” she said when I met her, “we want to go back to the village eventually.” I do not believe it for a moment. In cities such as Guangzhou and Chongqing, Chennai and Bangalore, mayors and local governments are still making plenty of mistakes as they seek to grapple with the 21st-century conversion of Earth into an urban planet. But the biggest mistake of all would be to pretend that humans are destined to be anything other than city-dwellers.
“跛脚”的亚洲城市化(上)


国,广州。内陆移民聚居的老城区里,那些光线昏暗的小巷有些中世纪的味道。巷子里的简易房屋摇摇欲坠,打工者们在12小时的辛劳工作之后,风尘仆仆地赶回家中。

比较具有现代感的,是涂写在墙上的兜售伪造身份证的手机号码。此外,附近的豪华公寓小区、城市高架道路上的轰鸣声、成千上万家批量生产出口到欧美的鞋类和CD播放机的高科技工厂,也充满了现代气息。

据联合国(UN)预测,明年某时,全球67亿人口中的城市人口将首次超过农村人口。这个历史转折点耐人寻味。我去广州的这个城区,就是希望有人能够回答这一问题:为什么人类终于要离开乡村?


当今中国 = 狄更斯笔下的英国?

我曾设想,将广州市区比作查尔斯?狄更斯(Charles Dickens)在《艰难时世》(Hard Times)中描写的英国北部城市。毕竟,在英国发生的第一次工业革命,与如今冲击着中国南部乃至亚洲其它地区的现代化进程,在社会和经济层面有着如此之多的相似之处――尽管当今中国变化的速度更快,规模也更大。英国是全球首个城市人口超过农村人口的国家,绝非巧合。

事实上,亚洲发展迅猛的城市(包括广州在内),与维多利亚时代风格不尽相同,而是中世纪与超现代风格的尴尬融合。只有煤烟和烟雾符合狄更斯笔下的描述,然而,那些民工叙述的故事,或许与一个半世纪前背井离乡的英国人有共通之处。

“村里找不到工作,”张丁楠(Zhang Dingnan,音译)在她租住的简陋水泥屋里说,电视里播放的国产肥皂剧几乎盖住了她的声音。她解释了自己7年前为什么从湖南乡下来到广州。同时,她也在叙述着一个恢弘的故事:为何全球有数亿像她这样的人,从乡村迁移到城市。她是人类有史以来最大规模迁徙的一分子。

那天早上,我曾试图与广州火车站的来往民工交谈,但无处不在的警察和便衣让他们紧张,不敢开口。一些民工将就着睡在广场上。这里有来找工作的农民,有正要回乡探亲的“前”农民,还有带着孩子来看望父母的爷爷奶奶,湖南人和四川人用扁担挑着鼓鼓囊囊的行李箱或麻袋,而劳动中介公司在为工厂物色廉价劳力。

晚上,我幸运地被带到张丁楠的家中,她的家在一处不起眼的建筑物的一层,屋里很干净,但十分破旧。她的亲戚和朋友在广州来来往往――她们村里,已有40人来到这个城市――在任何一个给定的日子里,不知道会有多少人住在这间用瓶装水招贴画作墙纸的屋子里。每个月的房租300元人民币(合20英镑),长期住在这儿的包括她丈夫(当保安为生),以及最近才来广州的女儿,今年17岁。张本人35岁,干着3份兼职,给住在广州的外国人做家务。

境况开始改善

在外打工,最苦的就是把孩子扔在家里――无论在南部非洲还是东亚都是如此。张丁楠本来把一双儿女托付给留在村里的公公婆婆,但她的公公被拖拉机撞残了一条腿,而婆婆去世了。因此,孩子们13、14岁的时候就得靠自己生活,邻居们不时来帮点忙。“村里的居住条件好多了,”张丁楠表示,“但赚不到钱。”在广州,他们的境况开始改善。女儿贺永(He Yong,音译)在广州凯旋华美达大酒店(Ramada Pearl Hotel)找到了一份工作,甚至还能说几句英语。母女俩的手机都搁在厨房桌上。

中国是大规模人口迁徙改变地球面貌的最明显例子,因为中国有13亿人,是人口最多的国家。其实,这种变化遍及巴西、尼日利亚、墨西哥,以及印度(该国拥有11亿人,是全球人口第二大国)。

印度比中国更为贫穷,而且迄今城市化进程也落后于中国,但其城市“古今融合”的风格类似于中国。在钦奈(原名马德拉斯)中心地区的Greams Road贫民窟,在一块福特(Ford)Fiesta汽车的巨幅广告牌下方,几千名泰米尔人挤在简易屋和矮小砖房里,旁边是死气沉沉、又黑又臭的Cooum河,几处灌木丛上挂着废弃的塑料袋。当地居民饱受蚊子与热病的困扰。2004年底,当汹涌的印度洋海啸袭击当地海岸时,水边那些用木板和棕榈叶搭成的简易屋被卷走了。然而,没人想要离开,因为这个贫民窟有着数十年的历史,钦奈有很多的就业机会,无需支付房租,政府还发放大米和做饭用的煤油。

在这些光线昏暗、烟熏火燎的房屋里,居住着建筑工人,家务佣工、油漆匠和电动三轮车夫――这些过去的农民推动着这座城市不断扩张的经济。34岁的家庭主妇科马西(Komathi)总结道:“这个地方挺舒服的。”她是围住陌生来访者的一群兴高采烈的女性之一,访客锃亮的皮鞋上溅满了烂泥和其它更可怕的东西。科马西的丈夫在打日工,这意味着他找到什么就做什么。她的女儿也和自己的丈夫以及年幼的儿子一起住在Greams Road。她有两个儿子,一个还在上学,另一个在干机修工。男人都在外头工作,或是在找工作。生活艰难但并非令人绝望,而且随着印度经济复苏,情况正在好转。

让下一代接受教育,跻身中产阶级

然而,正改变着我们世界的城市移民现象,不只是农民成为佣工或工人的故事,也是民工们用收入资助子女读书的故事。通过这种方式,他们的子女也许能得到一份令人羡慕的城市办公室工作,让他们有机会跻身新兴中产阶层。

在距离Greams Road不远的钦奈南部一处绿荫葱葱的住宅区,马里亚姆?拉姆(Mariam Ram)正忙着为她的高科技企业TnQ Books and Journals招聘更多毕业生,该企业负责国际科学期刊的出版筹备工作。西方出版商已把费钱耗时的筹编工作外包给她这样的公司了。当我看到拉姆时,她的公司已经雇佣了638名员工,在两座大楼里全天候运营,她正准备再招30人。“公司员工的最低资质,是获得一流大学理科专业的学士学位,”她表示。“其余则要求硕士或博士学位。我们正在疯狂地招聘。我们要的人需要具备英语、科学和信息技术等专业,同时工资很低。除了在印度,你在哪儿都招不到这样的人。”

“我认为这个国家显然更加富裕了,”她说。“你每次来,都能看到变化。印度正处于一个非常令人振奋的时期。”

钦奈尤其如此。这座城市以其保守的文化为荣,但也准备迎接那种令班加罗尔和孟买居民振奋而又疲惫的飞速增长。在距离拉姆办公室几条街的地方,汽车和卡车与山羊、母牛、自行车以及三轮车争道。在城市以外,我看到在闪闪发光的圣戈班(Saint-Gobain)玻璃厂和某科技园旁边的农田里,一位农夫正驱赶两条小公牛拖着一张犁,而载着新式风力涡轮机的卡车正向西开往班加罗尔。

“我们公司刚创业那会儿,所有员工都有自行车,有些人还有小型摩托车,”7年前创立OfficeTiger的前高盛银行家约瑟夫?西戈尔门(Joseph Sigelman)表示。“现在他们都有了小型摩托车,有些人还有汽车。”OfficeTiger是一家为银行、律师和出版商提供后台服务的“业务流程外包”企业。该公司在钦奈有近3000名雇员,平均年龄为26岁。“从他们拿到聘书起,就成为中产阶级的一员。”

(待续)
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